My favorite things Kenya 1 & 2-The final post

This is my final post. Its sad as it feels by ending this blog my trip is coming to an end in some way. Yes I realize I have already been back in the U.S. 15 days but I've been putting this off in the hopes of extending the experience. So here it is my number 1 and 2....

1. Friends/Family

I say friends and family because that's what they were. They were my home away from home for three months. The experience wouldn't have been the same if they weren't there. I know it is these people who made the trip unbelievable. We traveled together and bonded over all the mishaps along the way. I always used to wonder what it was about summer experiences that were unforgettable; the warm weather, the exotic locations, the reasons for traveling? Its the people. The people can make or break the experience and I was blessed on this trip to meet and spend time with some of the best people I've ever met. When I think back on Kenya its these people who are attached to the memories. They are undoubtedly what I will and what I do miss the most.

As I am sitting here writing (and starting to cry) I am trying to pinpoint some of my favorite memories and its hard. There are so many moments, so many nights, so many jokes that its difficult to pick just one. Like the adventures I think I'm going to highlight some of my favorite memories from this summer.

Max-You were here for so short but I don't think the summer would have been the same without you there. You single handily got us started on our weekend trips and I don't think we stopped to sleep until you left. I mean how many trips did we fit into the 5 week time? Not to mention the week where we went out EVERY night in order to fully celebrate you leaving and raided Kayla's pantry to make dinner. You were the only other CDCer and we had many good chats on the way to work every morning of course while the matatu van was swerving dangerously around the road. My favorite memory by far though has to be when you and Richie got the 'great' idea of running after the wildebeest. Maybe not the smartest of ideas but made for an entertaining video. Here's where I'd congratulate you for winning our asshole card tournament but wait you didn't win did you el presidente...I think that title was stolen from you at the last minute. Did I say stolen? I meant rightly deserved.

At the top after our first trip, to Hell's Gate.

Emily-First I have to say how grateful I am to you. I'm not sure I would have gotten to know as many people as I did without you to do the introductions. I am so grateful that that day our car was late and I was able to tour Walter Reed. Also very glad you spoke up at the mention of Michigan!! You were our guide. There are times that I look back and wonder if we could have gotten through it or gotten through it as smoothly without your Swahili skills or Kenya experience. You really showed us the ropes. I think by far my favorite memory or memories is all the dancing. Especially to Waka Waka....I think we definitely lived this one up. Or you know my favorite memory could be the baked goods that seemed to constantly be coming out of your house. I mean do I listen to my head or my stomach? I think the best part of the summer for us is it doesn't have to end. I always wonder at how small the world is when you think about the people you meet across the world. I mean were 45 minutes apart!! Craziness....I can only say until we see each other again because I know with this distance we will!

Richie-Where do I even start? I think my favorite memories of you this summer mainly revolve around the crazy things that came out of your mouth and tusker. And I think you wouldn't have it any other way. Some of my favorites: "That's deadly." Said over and over again in relation to just about every 'cool' thing we did over the course of the summer. "Jen, we need you to come here now." I go running in what seems to be an emergency but turns out to be a birthday cake with many candles waiting for me. "Let's extend our trips." One night after a few too many tuskers we all decided that it may be necessary to stay a bit longer in Kenya. REALLY glad this happened! "I'm going to have one more." I can't even begin to count the number of times I heard this one. Looking back on it I think it was your instance for one more tusker that turned nights into memories and friends into family. (Yes I realize that was a little cheesy) I know that at times you probably got sick of being the only one with testosterone at the table but Richie it wouldn't have been the same if you hadn't been there. I can only say that I cannot wait you make it here to the states or I to Ireland. Whichever comes first and YES I will be taking you up on that offer to stay at your gaff. As Rachel was our witness you can't back out of it now!
Its been grand.


Rachel-Again where do I start? There isn't a single memory (ok so that's a bit of an exaggeration but there isn't many) that I have of Kenya that doesn't include you. Whether it was our bikes breaking down in Hell's Gate, telling you to stop 'sleep-texting' on Mt. Elgon, going to see Twilight in Nairobi, visiting the tourist market in Kisumu so much that they know our names, attempting to make a pie from scratch, or splitting a delicious dessert at the Laughing Buddha, I'm never going to forget it. One of my favorite memories has to be our attempt to make make up a song in the Mara. "Masai, Masai Mara....Mara" (said to the tune of Money, Money, Money) So we got this brilliant idea that we should one make up a song about the Mara and two we should do a music video. We got as far as this line and stopped....yeah you can see why. Needless to say there isn't one distinct time that stands out to me more than the other whether we were convincing Richie it was time to go home, shopping, walking around the city, or just hanging out. More so I am thankful that I was able to find a great friend in you. I'm going to hold you to the promise to return in May. The coast, Kisumu, the works! I am already saving!!

Josh- Can I say where do I start for a third time? I feel over the past three months I was in Kenya the memories I have that include you are to numerous to count. Upon trying to decide on a favorite is where I get stuck. My first thought goes to Mt. Elgon and the struggle (or what seemed to be) to get up and down the mountain. Sure I trusted your new car and sure I trusted your driving but that whole falling off the side of the mountain was always there in my mind. I'm just glad I wasn't seated up front because I probably would have driven you crazy with my 'minor' freak outs and bouts of hiding in my hoodie. My second thought goes to a certain wedding crashing event that may or may not have happened :-) (depending on who is reading this right now) I don't think I've ever enjoyed rocking out to YMCA and Michael Jackson as much as I did that night. Think if we would have stayed there any longer we would have started making friends out there on the dance floor. When I look back on the summer, I think I also have a lot to thank you for. The simple things: the rides (unfortunately you were the only one with a car) and the big things: allowing me to wait out the referendum at your house and then move in for the remainder of my trip. I think (or I hope) I managed to take care of the place while you were away. I mean it was still standing when you got back! Most of all though, Josh, thank you for being a part of my summer and more so for continuing to stay in touch. And get ready, Rachel and I are coming back!!




My last night in Kisumu out at the Laughing Buddah.


All in all I miss you guys tons. The three months in Kenya were some of the best of my life. Until we meet again! (if I knew how to say that in Swahili it would make this post even cooler!)

2. The CDC

When I started this summer I already had preconceived notions on how my summer experience was going to go. I had found this amazing opportunity abroad and was ready to get started. As with any international experience things are bound to change and sure enough my project was switched about a month into my trip. It ended up being for the better as I had the opportunity to basically run my own project. I started from the beginning stages learning what I could from already established surveillance programs, hiring staff, running training sessions and eventually collecting data. It was really a great experience to have because it allowed me to follow a project from the start to the implication. It also gave me the opportunity to get hands on experience in project management. Both good resume builders!

On a less serious note, working at CDC summer was a dream come true. I learned way more in my three months in Kenya than my entire first year in grad school. It made me see that sometimes you don't realize how much you know until you put it in practice. Coming over I felt so unprepared for what awaited to me and was honestly surprised by the knowledge that I had and how I was able to translate that into my work.

It was not only my experiences at the CDC that shaped my summer but more so the people who worked there. I had the privilege of working with some of the country's leading minds in influenza, malaria, statistics, and enterics. It was an honor to collaborate with them and share ideas. I know that as my career moves forward I can turn to these people for advice, support, and assistance. When you think of CDC your mind honestly recalls the research and ignores the inter workings of the organization. It is these people that I will remember most because of the experiences and memories we formed.

Rachel- My supervisor, my friend, my go to, my second mom, my support. Its hard to pinpoint what I will remember most or more so what I will miss the most. You brought me through the initial hard times and were always there with a piece of advice. I will always remember your assistance with the mess that was finding me a place to live and all the times we moved me around the city. I loved meeting your family and your kids. I will treasure those moments with them. As a mentor you taught me the inner workings at CDC. Who to go to when you wanted something done, how to be an effective leader, how to ask for help when you need it. I was so grateful for these lessons and also appreciated you turning to me for help as well. I knew leaving would be hard but I didn't expect saying goodbye would be as difficult as it was. I know we will always stay in touch and will meet again soon.

Chege-My driver, the giver of marriage advice, and the best at subtle jokes. I already miss heading out to the field everyday. My best memories are when we decided that work just wasn't necessary that day and headed into town or when you insisted that I needed to marry a Kenyan in order to stay longer. I am so thankful that you were always our driver and honestly looked forward to the hour drive to and from the field that was filled with jokes, snide remarks, and rantings.

Rhoda-The go to girl, the keeper of my passport, and the one who will always brighten your day. Rhoda was always the one I went to when I needed a pick me up. There was never a moment or day that she wasn't smiling and no matter the question she always seemed to have an answer. I jokingly refer to her as the 'boss'.

Ruttoh-I don't have any funny name for him or any smart remarks. Ruttoh is a character in and of himself. He was the go to man for any kind of supplies and even though I probably was in his office everyday he never turned me away. He was my teacher of Kenya names for things and always reminded me that it wasn't a binder but a box file. I will always be grateful to him for helping me find my first place and buying me that beer!

There are so many others that I would love to mention but then this post would just go on and on forever. CDC was my home away from home for the three months I was in Kenya. The people there opened their arms and sometimes homes to me. Given the chance I would go back in a heart beat and Kayla did say, "Come back in May....Bring your own money!"

Favorite things Kenya

This is me bawling because I couldn't speak after they had all talked.

I told you I was finishing this post and here's 3 and 4....

3. My Field Staff

I miss them. I truly do. Its been only a week since I've seen them but I miss going out to the field daily and seeing their smiling faces. Our staff consisted of 8 nurses, 3 pharmacy staff, 3 health facility recorders, and 2 quality control personnel. I can honestly say all were open and welcoming. I was able to get to know each and everyone of them. Probably one of the hardest nights for me in Kenya was the night I took them all out to eat. We were finally able to sit down as a team instead of the three collective units and talk. I don't think I have ever laughed and cried so much. I was touched when everyone took turns standing and saying something about me. By the end I couldn't even form sentences to thank everyone enough. These people came into my life for a snapshot and there isn't words to describe what they did to change it. They taught me how to lead not only as a team leader but as a boss. I learned how to best communicate and get things done. I mean sometimes this took a little finesse but I figured it out. I couldn't have asked to be place with a better group of people. I know that I will continue to keep in touch with them and when I return to Kenya (Yes I AM going back) they will be the first ones I call to be on my team.

The entire team!

4. The adventures

Although I was based in Kisumu the best parts of my trip were by far the 'adventures' I took. I call them adventures because for the most part they were unplanned and by the seat of our pants so to speak. We went to game parks and the big cities, climbed mountains and hiked the rain forest. Kenya is a country that offers very diverse wildlife, terrain, and things to do. I made it a point to soak up as much as possible in my limited time there. Looking back its hard to claim one trip was my favorite over another. I loved all of them for their uniqueness, the unexpected surprises, and the people who came along. I think the best way to do this is to just focus instead on my favorite moment of each trip....

Lake Naviasha: I think my favorite moment here was hiking Hell's Gate gorge. The terrain was beautiful but difficult. I loved the guides witty comments on the orgin of the name of the gorge and his insistence that this was an "easy" hike. Some honorable mention moments of this trip include the sunrise boat ride on the lake and just sitting all evening in the great bar/restaurant at the campsite. This was my first trip and thus holds a special place in my heart. I think it was the trip that got us started!

Kakamega Forest: This one is easy. My favorite moment of this trip was watching the US vs. Ghana world cup match at a family's home in the middle of the rain forest. It was my 23rd birthday and a man graciously invited us into his home. I watched the US loose to Ghana sitting in a small hut with the man's son sitting on my lap. At least he was happy Ghana won!!

Mt. Elgon: This one is a toss up. I feel so much went "wrong" on this trip that its hard to pinpoint a great moment. Although there were so many mishaps the memories that came from them were great. Lets see....oh when we got stuck on the way up the mountain, or in general just getting up the mountain in one piece. Big thanks to Josh for that one! The hike itself was beautiful but rough. Oh and the downpour we got stuck in on the way back down....The caves were spectacular minus the threat of Ebola and the river that was the road on the way back to Kisumu brings back great memories as well. This was a trip of mishaps that just turned into "can you believe that happened?"

Nairobi: Here I think the best part was the shopping and boy did we shop. I think Rachel and I hit almost every shop in Nairobi in our short three days there. We got souvenirs and clothes to take back to Kisumu. The food was good too although I think my judgement was clouded as I was CRAVING American food pretty badly at this point.

Masai Mara: I'm going to lump this trip into one. The whole thing was my favorite moment. We saw too many animals, lion kills, Masai men, Japanese tourists, and wheat fields to pin down one memory. The beauty of this trip lies in its uniqueness. I know I can always go back and it will be different. Different animals, different issues that arise and the best part is it will always be amazing. The Mara is Kenya.

My top 1 and 2 to come soom!!! I'd do it now but I think I'd start crying....

The Journey Home

Good bye Kisumu!!

No I haven't forgotten about my top ten list. I will finish it. I may just finish it from the states....Needless to say the last few days of my trip I was a bit occupied with goodbyes and cramming things in to even think about writing. In London now. Flew out of Kisumu Monday night soaking in each second and then flew out of Nairobi this morning. I have a long layover here in London and will finally fly out tomorrow morning. Its definitely been a long journey. I did not go into the city. Who thought sitting on a plane for 9 hours could be so exhausting! I decided to check in the hotel and get a little sleep. It seems surreal to be able to say I will be home tomorrow. Its been a great summer to say the least and I am very very very sad to see it come to an end. I wish there were words to describe the experience but there really isn't. I already miss Kisumu and my friends there. Its going to be a very hard adjustment to be home. (Iit is still instinct to reply in Swahili when people ask me questions) The only thing left now is to plan the return trip. How many months till May?

I gave in. I saw the McDonalds and everything hit the fan...at least I can honestly say I haven't had it in about a year!

My favorite things...continued

5. The world cup

I'm going to be honest. I didn't even know the world cup was this year yet alone that it was in Africa. I don't follow soccer or consider myself a fan so when I heard that the world cup was going to be in Africa while I was I didn't think much of it at first. At the time I didn't realize that the world cup would grow to be a huge part of my life. Soccer or futbol is a way of life here in Kenya and for that matter all of Africa. No other sport holds a candle to the game and you are almost guaranteed to find a random match spring up usually with a makeshift ball or soda can. Not only should I have realized this from the start but I should have noted the importance of the world cup being held in Africa.

A little background on the world cup (and I mean a little since I know nothing!): The world cup rotates countries every four years. Countries can petition to host the event, similar to the Olympics. In order to host a country must be economically stable and have the capacity to host multiple futbol matches simultaneously. This means many large stadiums within a small radius to make traveling for players easy. So once you take this into consideration this eliminates a lot of the countries that participate in it especially those in Africa. Before the end of his presidency, Nelson Mandela appealed to the World Cup community asking for a chance for South Africa to host the games. Many scorned him and didn't think even South Africa had the infrastructure to host such a world watched event. However, Mandela saw this opportunity to host not as a way to specifically benefit South Africa but to unite the continent. This was truly seen in the 2010 games.

Africans did not identify with one team or another but instead were rooting for any African team. They followed Ghana to the final matched and the talked about how they got screwed for months after. It is this one continent one nation mentality that finally drew me in. It was contagious. I found myself looking forward to each and every game choosing one team to root for (almost always an African team, only rooting for the USA when they played Ghana). The world cup was a cultural event here. We found ourselves choosing the locations we would watch the game based on who was playing. If an African team was on we'd be out in the community rooting along with every other Kenyan.

The world cup united the continent. The songs, the media, the tv commercials; it was everywhere!! I'm not sure I would have paid much attention to the games it I was anywhere else, I'm not even sure I will watch in the future, but I do know that the world cup shaped my experience here. It was the late nights of watching at local pubs and bars, screaming at the tv when a ref missed a call, and the disappointment felt by all of Africa when Ghana lost. The world cup successfully united a content. We can only hope that something can be learned from this...

6. The scenery

Kenya is beautiful. There really is no other words to describe it. Its a country that has such diversity of scenery and environment that you never get bored. Here in Kisumu its hot due to the elevation and the lake. I've enjoyed many a nights sitting next to the water. The sunset over the lake is breathtaking and there's something peaceful about spending a day on the water. From Kisumu the land rises into the Rift Valley. As you drive east you're greeted by huge boulders that mark the start of this famous area. The rift valley is known also for its large tea plantations. Rows and rows of tea stretch out as far as the eye can see only interrupted by small white houses that hold the workers. The weather is a little cooler and is home to rainforests, barren mountain sides, and savannahs. How this is possible is beyond me. It does make for beautiful landscapes, interesting plant life, and a diverse animal populations, aka great pictures.

The tea fields at Kerico

Traveling even further east you meet Nairobi. A huge city amidst a developing country. Kind of out of the ordinary. Further on Kenya drops off again into beautiful national parks and then of course to the coast where white sand beaches line the Indian Ocean and the population suffers through humid and hot days. I only wish I could see it. Overall the scenery blew my mind. Its a blessing to be able to live in a place like this and experience it everyday. I know the pictures and the landscapes will be a constant reminder of one of the things I love most about this nation.

My Favorite Things...continued

7. Kuku Choma

My mouth is already watering thinking about this. Yes its food and yes it does make my top 10 list of favorite things in Kenya. I'm just surprised it isn't higher up there!! Kuku choma is basically grilled chicken. Its a staple here in Kenya and you can pretty much get it at any resturant whether it be a five star place or a roadside hotelli (the Kenyan word for snack shop). I've done my fair share of kuku choma sampling since I've been here and I'd like to label myself as a semi kuku expert. Kuku choma is served with ugali which is another staple around here. Ugali is basically a white paste. Its made from ground millet which is a hybrid of the corn plant. Its white and can sometimes be sort of sticky. Kenyans usually eat it as a filler to the rest of their meal and if you indulge in this there is a certain method of eating it that you must adhear to. Ugali must be broken up into small pieces with your fingers and molded into a little ball. From there you can grab any other part of your meal to eat with it whether its vegatables or some meat. Along with the ugali, kuku choma is almost always served with katchabari or tomato salad. Now the first time I ate katchabari I was warned that I was doing so at my own risk. Its not cooked and consists of fresh tomatos, onions, lemon juice, and some salantro (in the fancy places). So yes I could have been regreting this the next day but alas my stomach of steel provailed. Thank goodness too because if there is something I can't resist its katchabari. I could just eat it as a meal.

If your mouth isn't watering by now you better check your pulse. Out of all the Kenyan foods I've had kuku choma is by far the only one I'll miss. There's something strangely satsifiying about diving into a plate of chicken and ugali with your fingers. Its not just about the food either. Going out for kuku choma has been a regular event for me and my friends here. Its about the conversations over the dinner table and Richie's insane idea of opening a kuku place back in Ireland. Its about the sky opening up and it pouring everytime we decide to sit outside and having to grab the chicken and duck for cover. Yes we ALWAYS save the chicken. Its about hitting up several kuku choma places in one night for a comparison and not being able to move the next day because we did so. Its about being able to take out your staff and share a meal one last time remembering all the great times you've had this past summer. As they say no matter where you are or go, food will always be a common denominator. It brings people together and in my case holds so many memories. I know I will attempt to prepare kuku choma back home. I know it won't be the same but at least the process of it will always bring me back here.

My Favorite Things...continued

8. Public Transportation

The words "public transportation" in Kenya take on a slightly different meeting then what one would expect in the US. There isn't fancy bus lines or overhead trains. The idea of a subway system to Kenyans is absolutely laughable especially when they cannot even rely on the railway system to be on time. Here we rely on matatus, tuk tuks, piki pikis, and bota botas to get around. I know what you're thinking is something like, "What?!" so let me explain. A matatu is basically a big van that seats roughly 14 people and I say roughly because as the Kenyan rule stands there is always room for one more! I think the most I have seen and experienced in a matatu is 22. Yes that is people sitting on top of other people. Matatus run pretty consistently and there is definitely no shortage. They do have their downfalls as they are usually surrounded by people trying to sell you a snack or a beverage for the ride, they travel at breakneck speeds, oh and there's that whole pick pocketing things. Its pretty common!

Tuk tuks are by far my favorite mode of transport here. They are basically small carts, similar to golf carts, that are closed in. They are big enough not to be seriously damaged in an accident yet go slow enough to not be scary. I normally grab one of these on the way home if its late or if I'm out with friends.

A piki piki is by far the most dangerous way of travel here and I'm not going to lie and say I haven't taken one. A piki piki, or a motorbike, is pretty common means of travel here. The problem lies in the drivers. Most do not have a license, or a helmet, or drive recklessly. I mean the list goes on and on. I'm sure my family is cringing right about now, but I promise I haven't taken one of these in a very long time :)

Last but not least is the bota bota or the bicycle. I can honestly say I haven't taken one of these. (Even though its a pretty safe mode of travel) I have this fear of trying to balance on the back that's preventing me from even attempting. One of my favorite sites around Kisumu is a bota bota driver struggling up a hill with a man or women who weighs twice what they do on they back of their bike. Oh Kenyans....No matter the type of transportation here or whether its safe or not, will hold a memory for me. I can't tell you the amount of times I've been squished in the back of a matatu just dying for air. Or zig zagging on a piki piki on a dirt road. For me it will always be about the adventure that public transportation was and the stories/memories that go along with it.

9. The Market

Oh the market....I don't even know where to begin with this one. One of my favorite and least favorite things about Kenya has to be their means of purchasing goods. There really isn't stores in the sense of the word. I mean sure there is the few grocery stores and hardware stores, but the majority of Kenyans seem to pretend they don't exist. Why shop there when you can find basically anything on the street?! And I mean everything from nails and bananas to locks and used underwear. Yeah I'm not kidding, you can buy used underwear.

My favorite part of the market is the people. Sure I definitely attract a crowd with my white skin all assuming I am unaware of the 'true' prices of things, but in general its worth the struggle. Most of the time I don't buy because it is more fun to just walk around and take in the sites rather then hassle with the sellers. On the rare occasion that I find something I want, I bargain and I bargain hard. This is probably where my sometimes sour taste for the market comes into play. A set price is sometimes so nice!! First no matter what you do you will always be asked for twice or sometime three times the amount the item is worth. Not cool. Then you end up being pretty rude and short with the seller just to get it down to a reasonable price. Even then I sometimes wonder did I get screwed?

The plus side to the market is the great deals. I mean I got presents for less than a dollar.....not that I don't love you all. I even managed to get 10 great dresses for 30 dollars. I mean that's 3 bucks a dress. You can't beat that. Overall the market is a trial but when I am feeling brave enough to challenge it, it can be one of the funniest and best places in Kenya. I know I will look back on the things I got and remember the struggle it was to fight for that last 50 shillings (for those who don't know, yes I argued over 60 cents!)

I wish I had pictures of these things for you but one you don't whip out your camera in or on public transportation unless you want it stolen or broken and two the same applies in the market so alas you'll just have to take my word for it!

My favorite things-Kenya

As my time here is coming to a close (tears) I've decided to reflect on my 10 favorite things about my experience here and the country in general. These are the things I will never forget and the things that are the hardest to leave. I cannot imagine leaving this place and can only hope I will be back soon. I keep telling myself this because its the only thing keeping me from breaking down in tears. I never thought I would grow to love this nation and its people so much. I wouldn't trade my three months here for anything. I am so grateful for the experience and can truly say it has changed my life.

10. Music

The music here is amazing. I love the colorful sounds and the upbeat sounds. One of the best parts of music here in Kenya is the diversity of it. Kenya is still essentially divided by tribes despite the uniformed government. Each tribe has its own distinct culture and characteristics, including music. I have grown accustomed to the different sounds in the night clubs and restaurants here. Even though I rarely know what the words means, there's something catchy in the beats and sounds. One of my best memories is the music from the world cup. The songs inspired a continent literally. I remember when any of the music from the tournament came on everyone went crazy. There was a national pride in the songs that isn't there in their everyday music. I was even sucked into the craze. I found myself humming "This is Africa" many a time. My time here in Kenya hasn't been centered around the music by any means, but I know that when I go home these songs will trigger great memories for years to come. They will always remind me of my three months here.

Life in Kisumu

Things have been kind of slow lately. I've stayed in Kisumu the last two weekends and have had a great time hanging out with friends. The referendum passed peacefully. So thankful that there was not any violence and Kenya has a new constitution that will hopefully propel the country into a new democracy.

Despite being under house arrest that entire week I managed to have a pretty good weekend. I moved from my small closet of an apartment to a friend's huge house. He was nice enough to let me move in permanently (as I was living here during the referendum). Its kind of weird to have so much space to yourself. We had not one but two get togethers that weekend which of course ment food food food. I think the running total was one goat, 8 chickens, 20 tomatoes, 5 lbs of ugali, 2 gallons of ice cream, and two crates of beer. So much food but so good!! Had a send off party for one of my friends. Its weird that people are starting to leave and I don't even want to begin thinking about when I have to go. Even after postponing my trip I am dreading the day I have to get on a plane. That night we decided to check out the wedding across the street. Yes we crashed a wedding. It was probably one of my best memories here thus far. Definitely joined in with a little YMCA and Michael Jackson action on the dance floor!!

This weekend was spent at the markets. Its so exhausting shopping here. Everyone wants you to look at their stuff even if you know you don't want any of it. Plus there's the whole bargaining thing. Its nice that you can get a better deal but its really frustrating when they try to take advantage of you. For some reason my white skin makes me a target. Surprise surprise. Also at the market you tend to get stared at more then normal and there's always the usual taunting and cat calling. My personal favorite from today, "How are you white person. Welcome to Kenya. Do you know that we only have black people here on this continent." Love Kenyans...

Lake Nakuru and the Masaii Mara Part 3

The cheetah getting ready to stalk.


The third day of safari, I have to say, was far less interesting than the first two but for good reason. In general, most of the 'exciting' animals or the ones everyone wants to see hunt at dawn or dusk. This makes seeing them on an all day safari very rare. It was a few hours in before we came upon anything interesting. We spotted a cheetah lounging on a rock and as we slowed down to take some photos noticed an impala in the background. Another kill!!! Or that's at least what we thought. Turns out this time the impala outsmarted the cheetah and escaped into the high brush.

Some of the million wildebeest.


As the day went on we witnessed what many like to claim as the 8th wonder of the world, the wildebeest migration from the Serengeti to the Mara. I'm not lying when I say we say millions of wildebeest. I tried to get some shots of the horizon but its hard to tell. Literally all you see is black dots stretching as far back as you can see. Also learned that wildebeest normally migrate with zebra herds. Now the wildebeest far outnumber the zebra but its crucial for the zebra to be there as we soon found out.


Two of my favorite giraffe pictures

Wildebeest are dumb. There's no nice way of stating it. I relate them to a cow. They follow the rest of the heard even if that includes plunging to their death in a deep gorge. Well later that day a heard was headed straight for said gorge when the zebra suddenly stopped. Did the wildebeest stop no that was until one finally noticed no zebra. The zebra had smelled the lioness that was waiting for the heard just below the ridge. Again we waited it out but alas no kill! Zebra definitely ruined our fun here!


If you look closely you can see the lion in the far right center just waiting for them to cross.

We also came across a family of giraffe. These are the masaii giraffe, named for the land in which the are most found, and are pretty common in Kenya. I got some really great shots and we managed to get pretty close. Next on the list of things to do was to get out of the van. Yes we broke the number one rule of the Mara, do not leave your car. But I figure that if the guide was suggesting we go down to the river to see the hippos and crocs then it was probably fine. Oh and we did have an armed guard, you know no big deal.


A family of hippos sunning. One big yawn.

The hippos were huge and there were so many in the small area that we toured. We only saw two crocs but there are numerous in the river as the wait for the unsuspecting wildebeest to cross. Later that day we took a quick drive to Tanzania and did a little "jumping" in the Serengeti. All while the tour guide and driver struggled to change our flat back tire. Yes I will proudly say that I pointed this out to them. They were like 'oh we should fix that'. Yes please fix the van so we don't get stranded next to lions.



Jumping across the border! The four of us by the River Mara.

We ended the day spotting a rare leopard up in a tree. I tried to get a good shot but he was hidden behind the branches and was feasting on whatever he drug up there with him. That evening we went back to camp and sat around our fire for a bit before feasting on nyama choma.



Lion family has a wildebeest breakfast. Sunrise in the Masaii Mara.

The next day we were up before the sun for a morning safari which we didn't see many animals but got a great sunrise. After that it was back to the camp for breakfast then off to Kisumu. We managed to sweet talk our guide to take us all the way back to Kisumu instead of dropping us off in Nakuru. Even the trip home was an adventure as the driver suddenly cut off the road and into a wheat field. Short cut he says! Needless to say during the hour we were on this said short cut I wonder if we were actually going to make it out ok. Oh and of course we had to stop along the way to pick up the driver's brother. We all shared some questioning looks for sure. But alas the short cut worked and we managed to make it back to Kisumu tired but in one piece. Definitely one of the major highlights of my trip thus far. Not sure what I can do to top this one but you can bet I'm going to try!

Packing up the van for Kisumu. Relaxing after a day safari.

Lake Nakuru and the Masaii Mara Part 2

Again the boys ready for safari! Beautiful sunset in the Mara

As promised the part 2 to this past weekend's adventure! After departing Nakuru we headed south to the Masaii Mara. The parks are not necessarily close to one another but the drive wasn't too bad. We made a short stop in Narok to stock up on supplies and then headed to the Mara. I wish I had a video clip of the road to get there. Our guide jokingly asked if we were ready for our "African massage" and I honestly did not take him seriously as I feel after two months I am used to the poor state of Kenya roads. Well it was rough and he was definitely right. I still haven't figured out how Kenya vehicles can put up with the conditions and then still manage to run...

The male of the family. The small family we saw!

After driving all day we went directly to the park for an evening safari. The few hours we spent in the park were by far the best of the entire trip. We were greeted by herds of zebra and impala. We were also lucky to get up close and personal with an elephant family who was stopping to take a drink. We thought our luck had just about run its course when we stopped by a female lion but THEN she went in for the kill. Yes we saw a lion kill!! We watched as she stalked the gazelle and then went after it. The gazelle didn't go down without a fight and managed to get some serious head butts in before the lioness put an end to the playing and grabbed the gazelle by the throat. (see pictures!) I wish I had thought to take a video of it but in all honestly I was so amazed by the situation at hand that it was enough to try to take pictures yet alone a video.

Getting ready to pounce. Got it!


The gazelle gets a few good head butts in. She decides that's enough of that.

To close the evening we got some shots of the sunset. Beautiful across the savannas of the Mara. I have to say that when you think Africa you think of the Mara. Miles and miles of grass all yellowed from the sun with the occasionally tree here and there. That night we made camp just outside the reserve at Acadia camp. It was decent with friendly staff and cute safari tent rooms. My only complaint is it was cold! I still haven't gotten used to the changing weather in Kenya. It blows my mind how one part of the country is so warm while another is experiencing below freezing temperatures.

More pictures and stories to come! I know what you're thinking, "She has more?!!"

Lake Nakuru National Park and the Masaii Mara-Part 1

The boys' safari faces. Flamingos!

This past weekend I went on safari. I feel like if you spend anytime in Africa this is a must do. Unfortunately this can become kind of pricey but luckily the four of us were able to find a great deal on a four day trip. I need to preface this series of blogs (yes its going to be a series) in saying that we had an amazing time. I took over 200 pictures in the course of four days and have too many stories to share in one sitting.

A few buffalo. This guy was taking care of an itch! First of MANY zebra.

We started our adventure in Nakuru. Nakuru is the fourth largest city in Kenya and has a beautiful salt water lake. We took a matatu there Thursday night which turned out to be highly uneventful (thank goodness!). There was a small delay when we ran into an accident near Kericho. Two semis had collided and lay sprawled in the middle of the road. In true Kenyan fashion there were no police to be seen to direct traffic and everyone was attempting to weave between the two overturned vehicles. Got into the city around 9pm and grabbed a quick bite to eat (probably my one and only attempt at Chinese food in Kenya).



Two male impalas fight. Probably over a girl... A Rothschild giraffe. The rarest in Kenya.

The next day we met our tour guide, Phillip, and our driver, William. Needless to say I used the whole British royalty reference to remember this. We headed to Lake Nakuru National Forest for an all day tour. I have to say I was very pleasantly surprised. The lake is beautiful and you can basically drive right up to the edge where flocks of flamingos feast on the lake's shrimp population. Right next to the lake there are buffalo and impala grazing. And of course zebra everywhere you turn. Up higher in the park we spotted some Rothschild giraffe and a quite large baboon family. My favorite was the baby, however I haven't decided if he's cute or not as up close they kind of resemble a cross between a monkey and a pig.

Baboon family up in the tree. The baby!

We were also lucky to see some pretty rare animals as well. We saw both white and black rhino. The white are slightly lighter in color and have a much shorter horn. They have about 40 in the park and I believe we saw about 10! The black rhino are much rarer as they are solitary animals and prefer to feed at night. Of the 9 in the park we saw one lone male. Of the more rarer animals we also saw a baby spotted hyena and a pair of ostriches (one male and one female).

Ok do the comparison. This is a white rhino. This is a black...

The baby hyena. Think he was guarding the den. I call this osteritch hugging.

Overall the day was great. We made some friends with a bunch of school kids who could not get enough pictures with or of us and had our first real taste of safari. I'm pretty sure I didn't believe the guides when they said this was nothing in comparison to what was to come. That night we enjoyed a great dinner at a very nice hotel in Nakuru (nothing like our questionable Chinese the night before!). We even found this great Hard Rock Cafe style bar tucked away in the back where we spent most of the night. All in all a great start to an amazing weekend. Enjoy the animals (know there were requests for more pictures)!

our hotel in Nakuru! The school kids mob Richie.

Nairobi!

I love Kisumu. I really do but the time had come to get out and get back to civilization. Not that Kisumu isn't civilized because come on it is the third largest city in Kenya. Mainly I was craving American food and a little shopping. My friend Rachel and I decided that a girl's weekend was in order and off we went. We were lucky enough to catch a ride to Nairobi with another friend and arrived Friday afternoon. Once there we indulged in some pizza and iced tea!!! (did I mention that I was craving American food?) We did a little window shopping as the big malls in Nairobi are a little out of my Kenyan price range. Eventually we ended up at this little market in a back stall going through bags and bags of clothes. I managed to get 10 things for 33 dollars!! A steal as they were all dresses. We stayed at this great place, kind of a back packers camp in the city. It was a family's home with tents in the backyard. It was a great oasis in the middle of the city!

The second day we took a cab to Karen which is a suburb of Nairobi and went to the Giraffe center. Again kind of a tourist trap but it was a lot of fun. We got to see about 6 giraffes up close and personal. They even let you feed them! As you can see from the picture it was an experience. Their tongues are quite rough and they slobber a lot. At the center we also did a short nature walk. We didn't see many animals but it was nice walk and had a good view at the end. Later that day we headed to the Masaii market. Its a huge market that rotates around Nairobi depending on the day. It has everything and was actually a bit overwhelming. I think we walked around it a few times before buying anything. It was off to indulge in some more non-Kenyan food for lunch and then back to the market for more shopping. On our way we found this great curio shop where I actually ended up getting a lot of my stuff. It was reasonably priced and the owner didn't hassle you to purchase. This is one of my least favorite things about the markets. The vendors come up to you and try to get you to look at their stuff and you end up getting pulled in five different directions. Needless to say I did some terrific bargaining. One vendor even told me to not tell the other 'mzungos' (white people) what I got him down too!

Later that night we went to see a movie, Eclipse. Was fun but the movie wasn't great so kind of a toss up on that. Our accommodation was great that night though as we got a garden tent and slept outside. You can see Rachel in the picture in our tent! Sunday was relaxing as we slept late and then headed back to Kisumu. The bus ride back was long (7 hours) and definitely was worse than the comfy ride we got there. Overall a nice break from Kisumu, but I can say that I love it here and wouldn't trade it for Nairobi any day!