My project

So I just realized the other day that I was only writing about my travels/adventures here in Kenya and wasn't writing about what I was actually doing here.  Yes I am working.  Yes I do put in an 8 hour work day (most days). 

I am currently coordinating an encephalitis surveillance project in Siaya (about an hour and a half from Kisumu) looking at the etiologies of encephalitis present here in Kenya.  We are using the already established surveillance team at Siaya hospital to identify cases of encephalitis and meningitis. Then administering a questionnaire to collect clinical information as well as some epidemiological data. 

From there our clinicians will step in and perform lumbar punctures (spinal taps) to collect cerebral spinal fluid.  The lab will then test the fluid for a large range of pathogens and hopefully we will get a hit on something.  Although I have no experience in the lab field, it has been interesting to learn a little about the technologies available there.  Everything has a price, but the what they can do in the lab now is pretty awesome. 

It has been an interesting road and has definitely been filled with its ups and downs.  What was supposed to start in June may just get going by early November.  Its just another testament to how long it takes for things to get moving here. 

Despite its challenges, the project has been interesting from the start.  Its a completely new field here yet there is so much burden in the field. I have found it much more rewarding to focus on the neglected diseases while here instead of the ones everyone is so familiar with (HIV, malaria, TB, etc.)

Camping in the Mara

This past weekend Josh and I took off to the Mara with friends for a weekend of camping and animal sightings.  The Mara is probably the most recognizable tourist destination in Kenya.  Its what you think of when you think of "going on safari".  The landscape is dotted with safari vans filled with camera-donned individuals from all over the world. The first time I visited the Mara I had an experience quite similar to that but this time we decided to venture out on our own, roughing it to some degree.

One of the many hyenas we saw

We set off from Kisumu. Normally the road can be pretty bumpy but we decided to take a different route.  After 2.5 hours of blissful pavement and 2.5 hours of not so nice dirt roads we made it to camp.  Camp was located on the river Mara on an embankment looking over a very large hippo resting point.  Needless to say I was very happy we had a little space between them and us.  After setting up the tents and camp kitchen there wasn't enough sunlight left to spot any animals so we rounded up dinner.  Now I know I claimed we roughed it but let me claim I have never camped so nicely:  hot food, ample seating and a warm fire. 

The wildebeest migration, a 7 wonders of the world

The next morning we woke early to get out on safari.  The lions tend to hunt in the mornings and evenings so that's the best time to catch a kill!  We unfortunately didn't see any this trip but did stumble upon a lone lioness licking her chops after enjoying a zebra for breakfast.  The day continued with more sightings of zebra, elephant, giraffe and the end of the wildebeest migration.  We treated ourselves with a drink and lunch at the Serena hotel overlooking the Mara plains.  I have to say I would never want to stay there as part of my Mara experience.  There's something about the wilderness and a five star hotel that doesn't mix well with me, but I can't say I didn't enjoy the food!  Afterwards we headed back out on safari, hoping the evening would bring us more luck.

A Hippo pod right next to camp

The second day was similar to the last in spending the morning and evenings hunting down animals.  We finally had luck at sunset on our way back to camp.  Josh noticed a group of safari vans huddled in one spot (which usually means there's something good to look at) and suggested we check it out.  A little bumping up and down and we were treated to a lepard sighting!  I can't stress how rare these are.  Usually the lepards only come out to hunt and then its only in the evenings.  When they aren't hunting they are sitting in tall trees very skillfully blending in.  We decided to get a little closer to the tree and were in awe as the lepoard made its way down the trunk.  Unfortunately I wasn't on the "right" side of the car to get any good shots, but it was an experience I won't forget. 

The Mara is beautiful.  You can visit it hundreds of times and never get bored of the breathtaking sceenery and animals.  Its one of those places where I catch myself and think "Wow, I'm in Africa".

Kakamega for a day

A few weeks ago, yes its taken me this long to get around to blogging about it, we headed up to Kakamega Forest for a day trip.  It was kind of a last minute thing but what's nice about the forest is its near enough that it can be a last minute type of thing.  This is especially true as they have finally fixed the road between here and there so what was a long 2.5 hour bumpy ride now is a 1.5 hour smooth trip. 

Some of the beautiful roses in the gardens of Rondo Retreat

We got to Rondo Retreat, a Christian hotel in the forest, at about noon and decided to get a bite to eat before hitting the trails.  They didn't have much selection (cough cough we didn't get to choose our lunch) and it was a bit over priced but nice.  The retreat has its own set of maintained trails which are very nice compared to Kenya Forestry Service's trails.  They are much wider and don't have as many tripping hazards.  We chose the 4 hour path and decided to see where it took us.

The trail

Walking in Kakamega is like walking back in time.  It makes you wonder what it was like back when all of Kenya looked like this.  It even takes you further back and makes you think this has to be close to what Adam and Eve experienced in Eden.  Your senses are just overwhelmed with the sounds of the forests from the insects to the birds to the occasional monkey swinging through the trees.  Its just breathtaking. 

We didn't see too many animals but probably saw about 100 horn bills.  The horn bill is this huge bird with a really deep beak.  Its really neat to see them soaring across the sky.  A few monkeys swung their way across our path and we, maybe not so gladly, saw a few insects as well. 

A slug on branch

Overall it was a great day.  We got back to the retreat after a few hours and spent some time in the gardens testing out a new set of Frisbee golf disks.  It was definitely worth the drive and better then just being lazy around home!

Home is where the heart is...

The last few years the word "home" had taken on a broader definition. When I went away to college and then grad school, home became those locations because it was where I lived, where I was connected.  Now half way around the world, Kenya has become home for the same reasons.  I've found that no matter where I am or how far away I am from where I started, home can be a reality for me and I feel blessed that I have that capability.

My dad claims I have caught a travel bug.  Sure maybe he's right but at least I have the ability to be grounded in wherever I am.   Home is a relative term for me.  Its where my family is, its where my friends are, its where I currently am....

On that note though I am very excited to be coming "home" to Illinois in December!

It'll be nice to get back to this old house and maybe I'll even see a little snow!