The Coast...part 1

Although my birthday was quiet, we definitely made up for it the following week and a half with a packed vacation to the Kenyan coast. The trip got off to a shaky start when I came down with a fairly high fever the day before we were scheduled to leave, but no worries. Like I mentioned before I was whisked off for malaria testing and immediately instructed to take antibiotics. Those Walter Reed physicians (Walter Reed is affiliated with the U.S. Army) sure know how to cover all bases!


The pool at the hotel. As you can see I am already relaxing...

Feeling about 80% we boarded the plane from Kisumu to Malindi. Even with the 8 hour layover in Nairobi I felt pretty good when we got in that evening. After a short taxi ride to the town of Watamu we were there and let me tell you it was gorgeous. The coast is known for its tourism and many Europeans take holiday there. As a result the landscape is a lot better kept than here in Kisumu and many resorts dot the landscape. We stayed at Turtle Bay, an all inclusive hotel right on the water. The plan was for Josh to attend a conference for work the first day and then the remaining time would be ours for vacation. After settling into the room we headed down to the buffet dinner and enjoyed a local native dance group.


The beautiful Indian Ocean
The next day I started my vacation the best way possible by changing into my swimsuit and laying on the beach most of the morning. The Indian Ocean was a site with the crashing waves and the very blue water. I was a little worried as we went in the off season, but despite the large quantities of seaweed on the beach it was beautiful. That afternoon we headed into the neighboring town to check out the Gedi ruins.


An archway in the ruins

The ruins are the excavated remains of a Swahili town from the early 1200s. The site is composed of many buildings and mosques with an outer wall surrounding the entirety of the city. Many artifacts including a pair of scissors, glass shards from plates and pottery, and jewelry have been found by archaeologists during the initial excavation. It is thought that there is still a large portion of the town that has yet to be recovered. Unfortunately, as many things go in Kenya, the community is awaiting the funds to continue the work. The site was beautiful and a little overwhelming at times. It was interesting to wonder how this once thriving town vanished into thin air around 1600. What happened? Where did these people go?
More ruins.

Turning 24 in Kenya

This was the second year in the row that I spent my birthday overseas. Although I miss celebrating with friends and family back home I had a great time here as well. This year was pretty quiet. No rain forest adventures or world cup games watched just some quality time in Kisumu. Josh took me out for lunch at one of my favorite places, Green Garden where we split two really good dishes. After that we headed out to the outskirts of town to do a little hiking on some hills. Its a pretty easy climb and there are some great views of Kisumu once you get to the top. We were just toasting my birthday on a boulder near the top when we heard the thunder rumbling in. Sure enough ten minutes later we found ourselves in a downpour. Hey whats Kenya without getting trapped in a rainstorm! Needless to say we packed up our things and headed back down. What's a little rain?

Below is the only picture I took of the hike. Too bad I don't have an image of us after the rain :) (Also my eyes may or may not be shut....oh well)

The mosquitoes...they love me

The mosquitoes love me. I'm not sure what it is about me in particular that they find appealing or why covering myself in 34% DEET doesn't even seem to work. Despite this constant practice and actively killing 4 to 5 each night I am still covered.

What is even more interesting is all of my bites seem to be concentrated on my left side. Even the one I got last night on my eye (yes I got bit on my eyelid last night) is on the left side. Normally I would think location doesn't matter but the concentration of itchiness on my left is starting to get old. The least they could do is spread themselves out evenly across my body :)

A mosquito bite here, a mosquito bite there generally wouldn't bother me, if I was in the States. What scares me is the risk of malaria associated with them here. I'm not on any kind of antimalarial being the long duration of my trip and about a week ago I came down with a pretty high fever. In the States we would just take an antibiotic and not think twice but I was immediately taken to the lab for a malaria smear! No worries it was negative, but it was definitely interesting and a little scary to get pricked and tested. And of course being the science minded person I am I had to have a picture taken of the whole process! (Picture to come)

A taste of Mendota in Kenya

I'm not a picky eater and you can't be over here. BUT I do get really excited when I find a dish or food that reminds me of home. Sure you can ask for certain "American dishes" but 9 times out of 10 its just not how you remember it despite the waiters constant claims that "Yes yes that is how it is."

The other night I had one of these savory food moments when we came home after work and found.......SWEET CORN. Yes actual sweet corn not the traditional maize (or what we would call field corn) found here in Kenya. I think I about died. I had noticed some growing in the garden out back but didn't fully trust that it was going to turn out as the gardner claimed. They just don't have that here!

But as I sat there with my hot, salted, and buttery ear I was thankful that this time, I was wrong!

Karibu Kenya!

The sun rises over Lake Victoria as the boats head out to fish.

...And I'm back! I think I ended the last post with a comment or maybe it was a threat that I would return to Kenya. I made good on that June 1st landing in Nairobi after 16 hours travel (and that's just on the plane!). Luckily though I didn't have to wait long in Nairobi as I hopped an earlier flight to Kisumu than originally planned. It felt really surreal landing down in Kisumu. On one hand if felt like my time here was a lifetime ago but I also got this strange feeling as if I had never left. Needless to say it was an easy transition back into Kenyan life. I was quickly exposed to the crazy traffic, the sights and even the smells of Kisumu. I did have some intense jet lag that took about 4 days, numerous naps, and a few early mornings to get over, but 15 days into my trip I'm doing well.

A heard of hippo

This year I am working on a sentinel surveillance project with CDC/KEMRI looking at encephalitis and meningitis in the Siaya area of Western Kenya. For those of you who are unaware a sentinel surveillance project is one where health care providers report illness in their patients. There is no active searching for cases or recruitment of patients. Illness is reported as individuals present at the hospital. I will be doing all of the project coordinating and I am excited to get started. Currently things are a little slow in the office but tomorrow I am headed to the field to get a first hand look at the everyday happenings of the hospital. Hopefully this will give me a good idea as to how this surveillance study will fit into the research already done there.

I love the reflection in the water

As far as any adventures go, I haven't really ventured out of Kisumu quite yet. I've spent the last few weeks visiting with old friends and settling in. I did however take an early morning boat ride to watch the sunrise on Lake Victoria. This was something I didn't get the opportunity to do last summer and it was a nice relaxing way to spend my first few days here. We saw a bunch of birds each more colorful than the next, got a little too close to a pack of hippo for comfort, and even spotted a monkey in the trees. Below are a few pics of that morning!

The group

My favorite things Kenya 1 & 2-The final post

This is my final post. Its sad as it feels by ending this blog my trip is coming to an end in some way. Yes I realize I have already been back in the U.S. 15 days but I've been putting this off in the hopes of extending the experience. So here it is my number 1 and 2....

1. Friends/Family

I say friends and family because that's what they were. They were my home away from home for three months. The experience wouldn't have been the same if they weren't there. I know it is these people who made the trip unbelievable. We traveled together and bonded over all the mishaps along the way. I always used to wonder what it was about summer experiences that were unforgettable; the warm weather, the exotic locations, the reasons for traveling? Its the people. The people can make or break the experience and I was blessed on this trip to meet and spend time with some of the best people I've ever met. When I think back on Kenya its these people who are attached to the memories. They are undoubtedly what I will and what I do miss the most.

As I am sitting here writing (and starting to cry) I am trying to pinpoint some of my favorite memories and its hard. There are so many moments, so many nights, so many jokes that its difficult to pick just one. Like the adventures I think I'm going to highlight some of my favorite memories from this summer.

Max-You were here for so short but I don't think the summer would have been the same without you there. You single handily got us started on our weekend trips and I don't think we stopped to sleep until you left. I mean how many trips did we fit into the 5 week time? Not to mention the week where we went out EVERY night in order to fully celebrate you leaving and raided Kayla's pantry to make dinner. You were the only other CDCer and we had many good chats on the way to work every morning of course while the matatu van was swerving dangerously around the road. My favorite memory by far though has to be when you and Richie got the 'great' idea of running after the wildebeest. Maybe not the smartest of ideas but made for an entertaining video. Here's where I'd congratulate you for winning our asshole card tournament but wait you didn't win did you el presidente...I think that title was stolen from you at the last minute. Did I say stolen? I meant rightly deserved.

At the top after our first trip, to Hell's Gate.

Emily-First I have to say how grateful I am to you. I'm not sure I would have gotten to know as many people as I did without you to do the introductions. I am so grateful that that day our car was late and I was able to tour Walter Reed. Also very glad you spoke up at the mention of Michigan!! You were our guide. There are times that I look back and wonder if we could have gotten through it or gotten through it as smoothly without your Swahili skills or Kenya experience. You really showed us the ropes. I think by far my favorite memory or memories is all the dancing. Especially to Waka Waka....I think we definitely lived this one up. Or you know my favorite memory could be the baked goods that seemed to constantly be coming out of your house. I mean do I listen to my head or my stomach? I think the best part of the summer for us is it doesn't have to end. I always wonder at how small the world is when you think about the people you meet across the world. I mean were 45 minutes apart!! Craziness....I can only say until we see each other again because I know with this distance we will!

Richie-Where do I even start? I think my favorite memories of you this summer mainly revolve around the crazy things that came out of your mouth and tusker. And I think you wouldn't have it any other way. Some of my favorites: "That's deadly." Said over and over again in relation to just about every 'cool' thing we did over the course of the summer. "Jen, we need you to come here now." I go running in what seems to be an emergency but turns out to be a birthday cake with many candles waiting for me. "Let's extend our trips." One night after a few too many tuskers we all decided that it may be necessary to stay a bit longer in Kenya. REALLY glad this happened! "I'm going to have one more." I can't even begin to count the number of times I heard this one. Looking back on it I think it was your instance for one more tusker that turned nights into memories and friends into family. (Yes I realize that was a little cheesy) I know that at times you probably got sick of being the only one with testosterone at the table but Richie it wouldn't have been the same if you hadn't been there. I can only say that I cannot wait you make it here to the states or I to Ireland. Whichever comes first and YES I will be taking you up on that offer to stay at your gaff. As Rachel was our witness you can't back out of it now!
Its been grand.


Rachel-Again where do I start? There isn't a single memory (ok so that's a bit of an exaggeration but there isn't many) that I have of Kenya that doesn't include you. Whether it was our bikes breaking down in Hell's Gate, telling you to stop 'sleep-texting' on Mt. Elgon, going to see Twilight in Nairobi, visiting the tourist market in Kisumu so much that they know our names, attempting to make a pie from scratch, or splitting a delicious dessert at the Laughing Buddha, I'm never going to forget it. One of my favorite memories has to be our attempt to make make up a song in the Mara. "Masai, Masai Mara....Mara" (said to the tune of Money, Money, Money) So we got this brilliant idea that we should one make up a song about the Mara and two we should do a music video. We got as far as this line and stopped....yeah you can see why. Needless to say there isn't one distinct time that stands out to me more than the other whether we were convincing Richie it was time to go home, shopping, walking around the city, or just hanging out. More so I am thankful that I was able to find a great friend in you. I'm going to hold you to the promise to return in May. The coast, Kisumu, the works! I am already saving!!

Josh- Can I say where do I start for a third time? I feel over the past three months I was in Kenya the memories I have that include you are to numerous to count. Upon trying to decide on a favorite is where I get stuck. My first thought goes to Mt. Elgon and the struggle (or what seemed to be) to get up and down the mountain. Sure I trusted your new car and sure I trusted your driving but that whole falling off the side of the mountain was always there in my mind. I'm just glad I wasn't seated up front because I probably would have driven you crazy with my 'minor' freak outs and bouts of hiding in my hoodie. My second thought goes to a certain wedding crashing event that may or may not have happened :-) (depending on who is reading this right now) I don't think I've ever enjoyed rocking out to YMCA and Michael Jackson as much as I did that night. Think if we would have stayed there any longer we would have started making friends out there on the dance floor. When I look back on the summer, I think I also have a lot to thank you for. The simple things: the rides (unfortunately you were the only one with a car) and the big things: allowing me to wait out the referendum at your house and then move in for the remainder of my trip. I think (or I hope) I managed to take care of the place while you were away. I mean it was still standing when you got back! Most of all though, Josh, thank you for being a part of my summer and more so for continuing to stay in touch. And get ready, Rachel and I are coming back!!




My last night in Kisumu out at the Laughing Buddah.


All in all I miss you guys tons. The three months in Kenya were some of the best of my life. Until we meet again! (if I knew how to say that in Swahili it would make this post even cooler!)

2. The CDC

When I started this summer I already had preconceived notions on how my summer experience was going to go. I had found this amazing opportunity abroad and was ready to get started. As with any international experience things are bound to change and sure enough my project was switched about a month into my trip. It ended up being for the better as I had the opportunity to basically run my own project. I started from the beginning stages learning what I could from already established surveillance programs, hiring staff, running training sessions and eventually collecting data. It was really a great experience to have because it allowed me to follow a project from the start to the implication. It also gave me the opportunity to get hands on experience in project management. Both good resume builders!

On a less serious note, working at CDC summer was a dream come true. I learned way more in my three months in Kenya than my entire first year in grad school. It made me see that sometimes you don't realize how much you know until you put it in practice. Coming over I felt so unprepared for what awaited to me and was honestly surprised by the knowledge that I had and how I was able to translate that into my work.

It was not only my experiences at the CDC that shaped my summer but more so the people who worked there. I had the privilege of working with some of the country's leading minds in influenza, malaria, statistics, and enterics. It was an honor to collaborate with them and share ideas. I know that as my career moves forward I can turn to these people for advice, support, and assistance. When you think of CDC your mind honestly recalls the research and ignores the inter workings of the organization. It is these people that I will remember most because of the experiences and memories we formed.

Rachel- My supervisor, my friend, my go to, my second mom, my support. Its hard to pinpoint what I will remember most or more so what I will miss the most. You brought me through the initial hard times and were always there with a piece of advice. I will always remember your assistance with the mess that was finding me a place to live and all the times we moved me around the city. I loved meeting your family and your kids. I will treasure those moments with them. As a mentor you taught me the inner workings at CDC. Who to go to when you wanted something done, how to be an effective leader, how to ask for help when you need it. I was so grateful for these lessons and also appreciated you turning to me for help as well. I knew leaving would be hard but I didn't expect saying goodbye would be as difficult as it was. I know we will always stay in touch and will meet again soon.

Chege-My driver, the giver of marriage advice, and the best at subtle jokes. I already miss heading out to the field everyday. My best memories are when we decided that work just wasn't necessary that day and headed into town or when you insisted that I needed to marry a Kenyan in order to stay longer. I am so thankful that you were always our driver and honestly looked forward to the hour drive to and from the field that was filled with jokes, snide remarks, and rantings.

Rhoda-The go to girl, the keeper of my passport, and the one who will always brighten your day. Rhoda was always the one I went to when I needed a pick me up. There was never a moment or day that she wasn't smiling and no matter the question she always seemed to have an answer. I jokingly refer to her as the 'boss'.

Ruttoh-I don't have any funny name for him or any smart remarks. Ruttoh is a character in and of himself. He was the go to man for any kind of supplies and even though I probably was in his office everyday he never turned me away. He was my teacher of Kenya names for things and always reminded me that it wasn't a binder but a box file. I will always be grateful to him for helping me find my first place and buying me that beer!

There are so many others that I would love to mention but then this post would just go on and on forever. CDC was my home away from home for the three months I was in Kenya. The people there opened their arms and sometimes homes to me. Given the chance I would go back in a heart beat and Kayla did say, "Come back in May....Bring your own money!"

Favorite things Kenya

This is me bawling because I couldn't speak after they had all talked.

I told you I was finishing this post and here's 3 and 4....

3. My Field Staff

I miss them. I truly do. Its been only a week since I've seen them but I miss going out to the field daily and seeing their smiling faces. Our staff consisted of 8 nurses, 3 pharmacy staff, 3 health facility recorders, and 2 quality control personnel. I can honestly say all were open and welcoming. I was able to get to know each and everyone of them. Probably one of the hardest nights for me in Kenya was the night I took them all out to eat. We were finally able to sit down as a team instead of the three collective units and talk. I don't think I have ever laughed and cried so much. I was touched when everyone took turns standing and saying something about me. By the end I couldn't even form sentences to thank everyone enough. These people came into my life for a snapshot and there isn't words to describe what they did to change it. They taught me how to lead not only as a team leader but as a boss. I learned how to best communicate and get things done. I mean sometimes this took a little finesse but I figured it out. I couldn't have asked to be place with a better group of people. I know that I will continue to keep in touch with them and when I return to Kenya (Yes I AM going back) they will be the first ones I call to be on my team.

The entire team!

4. The adventures

Although I was based in Kisumu the best parts of my trip were by far the 'adventures' I took. I call them adventures because for the most part they were unplanned and by the seat of our pants so to speak. We went to game parks and the big cities, climbed mountains and hiked the rain forest. Kenya is a country that offers very diverse wildlife, terrain, and things to do. I made it a point to soak up as much as possible in my limited time there. Looking back its hard to claim one trip was my favorite over another. I loved all of them for their uniqueness, the unexpected surprises, and the people who came along. I think the best way to do this is to just focus instead on my favorite moment of each trip....

Lake Naviasha: I think my favorite moment here was hiking Hell's Gate gorge. The terrain was beautiful but difficult. I loved the guides witty comments on the orgin of the name of the gorge and his insistence that this was an "easy" hike. Some honorable mention moments of this trip include the sunrise boat ride on the lake and just sitting all evening in the great bar/restaurant at the campsite. This was my first trip and thus holds a special place in my heart. I think it was the trip that got us started!

Kakamega Forest: This one is easy. My favorite moment of this trip was watching the US vs. Ghana world cup match at a family's home in the middle of the rain forest. It was my 23rd birthday and a man graciously invited us into his home. I watched the US loose to Ghana sitting in a small hut with the man's son sitting on my lap. At least he was happy Ghana won!!

Mt. Elgon: This one is a toss up. I feel so much went "wrong" on this trip that its hard to pinpoint a great moment. Although there were so many mishaps the memories that came from them were great. Lets see....oh when we got stuck on the way up the mountain, or in general just getting up the mountain in one piece. Big thanks to Josh for that one! The hike itself was beautiful but rough. Oh and the downpour we got stuck in on the way back down....The caves were spectacular minus the threat of Ebola and the river that was the road on the way back to Kisumu brings back great memories as well. This was a trip of mishaps that just turned into "can you believe that happened?"

Nairobi: Here I think the best part was the shopping and boy did we shop. I think Rachel and I hit almost every shop in Nairobi in our short three days there. We got souvenirs and clothes to take back to Kisumu. The food was good too although I think my judgement was clouded as I was CRAVING American food pretty badly at this point.

Masai Mara: I'm going to lump this trip into one. The whole thing was my favorite moment. We saw too many animals, lion kills, Masai men, Japanese tourists, and wheat fields to pin down one memory. The beauty of this trip lies in its uniqueness. I know I can always go back and it will be different. Different animals, different issues that arise and the best part is it will always be amazing. The Mara is Kenya.

My top 1 and 2 to come soom!!! I'd do it now but I think I'd start crying....