My project

So I just realized the other day that I was only writing about my travels/adventures here in Kenya and wasn't writing about what I was actually doing here.  Yes I am working.  Yes I do put in an 8 hour work day (most days). 

I am currently coordinating an encephalitis surveillance project in Siaya (about an hour and a half from Kisumu) looking at the etiologies of encephalitis present here in Kenya.  We are using the already established surveillance team at Siaya hospital to identify cases of encephalitis and meningitis. Then administering a questionnaire to collect clinical information as well as some epidemiological data. 

From there our clinicians will step in and perform lumbar punctures (spinal taps) to collect cerebral spinal fluid.  The lab will then test the fluid for a large range of pathogens and hopefully we will get a hit on something.  Although I have no experience in the lab field, it has been interesting to learn a little about the technologies available there.  Everything has a price, but the what they can do in the lab now is pretty awesome. 

It has been an interesting road and has definitely been filled with its ups and downs.  What was supposed to start in June may just get going by early November.  Its just another testament to how long it takes for things to get moving here. 

Despite its challenges, the project has been interesting from the start.  Its a completely new field here yet there is so much burden in the field. I have found it much more rewarding to focus on the neglected diseases while here instead of the ones everyone is so familiar with (HIV, malaria, TB, etc.)

Camping in the Mara

This past weekend Josh and I took off to the Mara with friends for a weekend of camping and animal sightings.  The Mara is probably the most recognizable tourist destination in Kenya.  Its what you think of when you think of "going on safari".  The landscape is dotted with safari vans filled with camera-donned individuals from all over the world. The first time I visited the Mara I had an experience quite similar to that but this time we decided to venture out on our own, roughing it to some degree.

One of the many hyenas we saw

We set off from Kisumu. Normally the road can be pretty bumpy but we decided to take a different route.  After 2.5 hours of blissful pavement and 2.5 hours of not so nice dirt roads we made it to camp.  Camp was located on the river Mara on an embankment looking over a very large hippo resting point.  Needless to say I was very happy we had a little space between them and us.  After setting up the tents and camp kitchen there wasn't enough sunlight left to spot any animals so we rounded up dinner.  Now I know I claimed we roughed it but let me claim I have never camped so nicely:  hot food, ample seating and a warm fire. 

The wildebeest migration, a 7 wonders of the world

The next morning we woke early to get out on safari.  The lions tend to hunt in the mornings and evenings so that's the best time to catch a kill!  We unfortunately didn't see any this trip but did stumble upon a lone lioness licking her chops after enjoying a zebra for breakfast.  The day continued with more sightings of zebra, elephant, giraffe and the end of the wildebeest migration.  We treated ourselves with a drink and lunch at the Serena hotel overlooking the Mara plains.  I have to say I would never want to stay there as part of my Mara experience.  There's something about the wilderness and a five star hotel that doesn't mix well with me, but I can't say I didn't enjoy the food!  Afterwards we headed back out on safari, hoping the evening would bring us more luck.

A Hippo pod right next to camp

The second day was similar to the last in spending the morning and evenings hunting down animals.  We finally had luck at sunset on our way back to camp.  Josh noticed a group of safari vans huddled in one spot (which usually means there's something good to look at) and suggested we check it out.  A little bumping up and down and we were treated to a lepard sighting!  I can't stress how rare these are.  Usually the lepards only come out to hunt and then its only in the evenings.  When they aren't hunting they are sitting in tall trees very skillfully blending in.  We decided to get a little closer to the tree and were in awe as the lepoard made its way down the trunk.  Unfortunately I wasn't on the "right" side of the car to get any good shots, but it was an experience I won't forget. 

The Mara is beautiful.  You can visit it hundreds of times and never get bored of the breathtaking sceenery and animals.  Its one of those places where I catch myself and think "Wow, I'm in Africa".

Kakamega for a day

A few weeks ago, yes its taken me this long to get around to blogging about it, we headed up to Kakamega Forest for a day trip.  It was kind of a last minute thing but what's nice about the forest is its near enough that it can be a last minute type of thing.  This is especially true as they have finally fixed the road between here and there so what was a long 2.5 hour bumpy ride now is a 1.5 hour smooth trip. 

Some of the beautiful roses in the gardens of Rondo Retreat

We got to Rondo Retreat, a Christian hotel in the forest, at about noon and decided to get a bite to eat before hitting the trails.  They didn't have much selection (cough cough we didn't get to choose our lunch) and it was a bit over priced but nice.  The retreat has its own set of maintained trails which are very nice compared to Kenya Forestry Service's trails.  They are much wider and don't have as many tripping hazards.  We chose the 4 hour path and decided to see where it took us.

The trail

Walking in Kakamega is like walking back in time.  It makes you wonder what it was like back when all of Kenya looked like this.  It even takes you further back and makes you think this has to be close to what Adam and Eve experienced in Eden.  Your senses are just overwhelmed with the sounds of the forests from the insects to the birds to the occasional monkey swinging through the trees.  Its just breathtaking. 

We didn't see too many animals but probably saw about 100 horn bills.  The horn bill is this huge bird with a really deep beak.  Its really neat to see them soaring across the sky.  A few monkeys swung their way across our path and we, maybe not so gladly, saw a few insects as well. 

A slug on branch

Overall it was a great day.  We got back to the retreat after a few hours and spent some time in the gardens testing out a new set of Frisbee golf disks.  It was definitely worth the drive and better then just being lazy around home!

Home is where the heart is...

The last few years the word "home" had taken on a broader definition. When I went away to college and then grad school, home became those locations because it was where I lived, where I was connected.  Now half way around the world, Kenya has become home for the same reasons.  I've found that no matter where I am or how far away I am from where I started, home can be a reality for me and I feel blessed that I have that capability.

My dad claims I have caught a travel bug.  Sure maybe he's right but at least I have the ability to be grounded in wherever I am.   Home is a relative term for me.  Its where my family is, its where my friends are, its where I currently am....

On that note though I am very excited to be coming "home" to Illinois in December!

It'll be nice to get back to this old house and maybe I'll even see a little snow!

Kitengela Glass

A new edition

This weekend I flew into Nairobi to meet up with Josh.  We weren't planning anything huge but wanted to take advantage of his time in the city to do some of the things on our list.  Josh had visited Kitengela glass on a previous trip and really wanted me to see it as well.  After seeing his pictures I couldn't refuse.

A sculpture on the compund

The trip out to the little art community was a bit rough.  With no secondary routes we were forced to go through downtown Nairobi on a Friday during rush hour.  Not my idea of fun.  The traffic didn't let up until we were well out of the city and had turned onto the little dirt road that would eventually lead us to the compound.  After a few more wrong turns and some rough patches we finally made it to our destinations 3 hours later.  (it was only a 8 mile route)

A gorilla welcomes you to the community

We were greeted by Nani, the owner of the estate.  She is a German artist who moved to Kenya almost 40 years ago.  Over the years she developed her property and now it is home to almost all of her staff, a slough of animals and the occasional visitor or two.  Immediately I fell in love with the place.  We were whisked inside her home and almost ran over by her 10+ dogs all wanting to give us their version of a welcome.  Soon dinner was on the table and I was overwhelmed by the delicious array before us.  All of it, I was informed, came from her garden or her animals.  She's a strict believer that if she can't grow it or make it herself then she shouldn't eat it.  I have never been so well fed in my life.

Beads are just one of the glass items they make

After a few hours of great conversation and a run in with a bush baby (inside Nani's house nevertheless), we headed to our house for the night.  The house we stayed in was breathtaking.  Stain glass mirrors, windows, floor tiles, etc. as far as the eye could see.  I think that first night Josh and I took a few hours just walking around the place discovering all the hidden treasures it had to offer.

A woman hand rolls beads

The next morning we were woken up to a troupe of baboons outside on the balcony and made our way back to Nani's house for breakfast.  Again we were welcomed into her house and served ostrich egg omelets.  Now I've never even seen an ostrich egg before but when I saw how much just one of these makes and how delicious it was, I'd say these are the future! 

Josh crosses the wire bridge

The rest of the day was spent exploring the grounds.  I attempted to cross the wire bridge to the other side of the ravine but after getting about 10 feet out I decided it just wasn't going to happen.  Josh proceeded across and got up close and personal with a herd of gazelle.  Besides the local wildlife, we were able to watch some of the glass blowing up close.  Workers were busy making vases and small bowls. Other artists worked on commissioned pieces and we got to see one of the finished stages of the cross Nani is doing for a local Catholic church.  Nani took one look at Josh's fancy camera and immediately had him snapping photos for her to use to promote the place. 

Hand crafting lilly vases

Overall the place was great.  Sure we did have a few mishaps getting out to the place and a dead battery on the way back but that's just part of the adventure.  I definitely want to go back because there is no way I could have seen it all.  Its just one of those rare gems that once you know its there you just have to keep going back for more.
 

Art work in the gallery

A little excited

After 4 months of wet hair, I am just a little excited about my new hairdryer.  Josh bought me it in Nairobi and I can't say how much I love it already (I've only used it once).  Its especially nice since my hair is about twice the length it was when I left the states.  Ahhh back to the dry straight hair days....its the little things that keeps me smiling :)

Monkey rock...an adventure I'm not sure I want to repeat

This weekend we were invited to go hiking with friends in the hills around Kisumu.  Instead of our usual trail we were going to tackle Monkey rock.  We were excited as we had wanted to do this trail before but didn't know where it started exactly.  So we took off from Kisumu and after a little driving came to a small road that we thought was the start of the trail.

Getting out of the car, I looked over to the rock and questioned our ability to get there in one day.  It just looked too far, but alas I trusted our friends who had done it before and we were off.  Right away I realized this wasn't going to be the normal hike.  There was virtually no trail and more often than not we spent our time searching for anything that resembled one. 

After one steep hand and feet assent and some ducking under brush, we arrived at a large boulder overlooking the valley below.  From here we assessed where to go.  Half of us thought that maybe it was best to hike high and walk along the ridge line.  Josh, I and another one of our friends thought going low was the way to go as to better cross the rivers and gorges. 

I'm not sure we ever found out who was right.  The next 4 hours were spent blazing trail, tripping over vines, getting scratched a 100 times with thorns and even a really bad run in with some ants.  Needless to say I was getting frustrated.  We weren't making any progress toward monkey rock and looking back on it now, I'm not sure we even make it to the start of the true trail. 

We gave up and coordinated to meet at a compound we saw below in the valley.  Slowly we made our way down, sometimes sliding ok mainly sliding, till we eventually got there.  Little did I know but the adventure didn't stop there.  Instead of walking along the road to get back to our car, the group decided to cut through a sugarcane field instead.  Sure it was faster but for those of you that know what it feels like to walk through high corn, it wasn't a pleasant experience. 

I can't say what a relief it was to see the car and to know that we were headed home.  As I stood in the shower that afternoon, the water stinging every cut and thorn, I thought well I can finally say that was a wash.  Sure I'd still love to climb to monkey rock.  The actual monkey rock.  But I will never do that hike again.